If you want to get ahead.....

 Get a Hat! I bought two balls of King Cole Raffia in Fireglow and a 3mm hook. Just enough to make this hat, I was aiming for the stylish shape H.M The Queen wears, a bucket style, but I think I prefer it with the brim turned up. We used to wear hats like this in the 1980s.I think it might need starching, or something. Not sure how to do that.

Free Frog Pattern

 

Croydon University Hospital has a charity shop raising funds to improve services for children with cancer.I came up with a pattern for a Frog toy to be sold in the shop.

I designed this amigurumi toy to be seamless; it works in any weight of yarn, from 3ply to chunky, with hook size variable, what matters is that the fabric be tight enough so no stuffing shows through.I used polyester toy stuffing and embroidered eyes and mouth to make it safe for children and cats! So far  I've made the frog into key rings, catnip toys, and plan to use some in an animation. (Had to abandon this however, as guess what, animation requires use of a green screen!)

Inspired by builders over the road, I made these hi-vis jacket wearing frogs for them, and they generously bought some

                                                                                                                                                                       30/05/21 A member of one of the knitting groups I sometimes attend kindly made some frogs from the pattern below and sugested some improvements.I offered to sew on the eyes, so here they are in their blank state.I might make them punk. 

Like this

Another member of the group has designed a knitted version- watch this space!

Lily the Frog by Jo Bodley

This seamless amigurumi frog is continuous- no fiddly add-ons, to be sewn on- and adaptable to be made in all yarn weights using different sized hooks. A Victorian scarf pattern in an old Weldons pattern book gave me the idea of using bobbles for eyes, fingers and toes. Inspired by the Chartwell Cancer Trust logo, Lily has a separately made removeable colourful collar. For safety, eyes and mouth are embroidered on, and polyester toy stuffing means Lily can be washed. She has a flat bottom to enable her to sit on a shelf with her legs dangling over the edge. I have made versions with a muslin bag of catnip inside-only those made from hardy acrylic tend to survive!

Intermediate

  Stitches used(UK terms)

ch- chain

dc-double crochet

htr-half treble

Bobble stitch- Insert hook into 1^st st of round, yrh, pull yarn through both loops- 1 lp on hook. Pull this loop out about 5mm (may be longer or shorter if using different yarn weight).*Yrh, insert through same st as before, pull through to match 5mm lp. Repeat from * twice.(7 loops on hook).Yrh,pull through all 7 lps. Insert hook into same st loops are in and ss to close bobble.

Increasing and decreasing

Materials

● This pattern uses approx.. 25g any DK yarn in mid green(A), though other weights can also be used. If making collar, you will need small amounts of dk in bright pink and acid green

● This pattern uses a 3mm hook, but as a general rule, size is not important for this project; what matters is, that the hook used produces a firm fabric so that stuffing will not show through.

● Polyester toy stuffing

Small amounts of black and white DK yarn or embroidery thread for eyes and mouth

Tapestry needle

Yarn Alternatives

Any yarn can be used for this project, as long as the guideline above about hook size is taken into consideration. A  4mm hook was used with a variegated aran yarn, to produce a frog which looks like he’s streaked with slime! A fine cotton and a size 14 hook produces a tiny frog which could be a key ring or, the body unstuffed, a finger puppet.

Tension

Tension is not important for this project; a smaller gauge than that recommended on the ball band will produce a tighter fabric- you do not want stuffing to show through.(Exception to this is using felting wool; in this case, you can work at a looser tension, as washing in the machine will shrink frog, produce dense fabric and hide stuffing))

Measurements

Not important for this project, however,

(From top of head to tip of toes )

A DK frog is about 19cm.

An Aran weight frog is 22cm

A chunky frog made using a 6mm hook is 32cm

Special stitch patterns

Bobble 

Pattern Notes

Commence at top of head and work in a spiral, making bobbles for eyes. Once head is completed, stuff it. Arms are worked by making a length of ch, making 3tr for paws and working a bobble into the top of each tr. A row of half trebles is worked into the remaining chain, dc to other side of body, second arm made in the same way. Work straight till body is desired length, then legs are worked like arms only longer. Decrease rounds are worked until about 6 sts remain; stuff body, run yarn end round rem sts like a drawstring, pull tight and sew in end.

Collar is a length of chain with leaf spines made by ch and ss back to top, 8 times. Into each leaf spine sts of varying sizes are worked in pink to make petals, carried along to next spine by ss. Collar can be sewn around neck of frog or sewn together separately and pulled over frog’s head.

Designer Biography

A lifelong knitter,I learnt to crochet in 2010 via a youtube video (thanks, bethin Texas, or bethinxt).I finds crochet  a great outlet for creativity.

Instructions

Ch2, work 5 dcs into 2^nd ch from hook. 6sts.

Rnd 1: 2dc into each st.(12sts.)

Rnd 2:*2dcinto next st,1dc, rep from *.(18sts.)

Eye round

Rnd 3:Insert marker for start of rnd. Make bobble,thus.

 Insert hook into 1^st st of round, yrh, pull yarn through both loops- 1 lp on hook. Pull this loop out about 5mm (may be longer or shorter if using different yarn weight).*Yrh, insert through same st as before, pull through to match 5mm lp. Repeat from * twice.(7 loops on hook).Yrh,pull through all 7 lps. Insert hook into same st loops are in and ss to close bobble.

*2dc in next st,2dc until there are 11 sts from bobble (next st should be opposite first bobble).Repeat instructions from make bobble to end. 24sts.

Rnd 4: Manoeuvre bobble to front of hook and make a dc behind it. There needs to be 14 dcs between bobbles and one dc behind each bobble. In order to attain this make 3 evenly spaced increases either side of bobbles. Work second bobble as first, make 3 increases to end. 30sts.

Rnds 5-6: 1dc in each st.

Rnd 7:(2dctog,3dc,) repeat to end.(24sts.)

Rnd 9: (2dctog,2dc)repeat to end.(18sts.)

Rnd 10: (2dctog,1dc) to end.(12sts.)

Rnd11: 1dc in each st.(12sts.)

Rnd 12; 2dc in next st, 1dc to end. (18sts.)

Stuff head.

Arm round

Commence round in stitch which lines up with one eye

Rnd 13:Insert hook into st indicated above,*Ch 13 fairly loosely.

Into 3^rd ch from hook, work 2tr. Ch1,turn. YRH and insert into top of 2nd tr, pull out loop and make bobble at top of first tr.Ch1Repeat twice more- 3 bobbles made. Sl st to st you made the trs into.10 htr into each rem ch.Dc to rejoin body of frog.

(2dc into next st,1dc) twice, 1dc.Repeat from *.

Rnd 14:*Dc into edge of top of arm, fold arm over head and insert hook through middle of arm, 1dc, dc other edge of arm.9dc, repeat from* as for other arm.24sts.

Rnds 15-22:1dc in each st .

Leg round.

Starting point should be aligned with arm and eye.

Rnd 22:1dc in next 2 sts.*Ch 18.

Make foot as for hand,

Htr into 15 ch to top of leg.3dc.Repeat from * for other leg.

Rnd 24:(3dc,2dctog)all around.When you come to legs , work a 2dc behind each leg.

Rnd 25:(2dc,2dctog) to start of round.18sts

Stuff body.

Rnd 26: (1dc,2dctog) to start of round.12sts

 Rnd 27(2dctog)to start of round. 6sts

Break off yarn.

Weave yarn in and out around sts of final rnd and pull tight like a drawstring. Fasten off securely.

Embroider on eyes as per photograph. Satin st or lazy daisies. For sleeping frogs, stitch a crescent below each bobble, with stitches for lashes radiating from it. For mouth, bring yarn out just below eye, make a smile shape with yarn and insert needle to match other side.Tether the loose ‘smile’ with tiny couched sts in 3 or 4 places.

Fasten off.

Petal Collar.(optional)

 With B make 21ch.

Row 1. 1dc into 2^nd ch from hook,1dc.

*ch6.Sl st into 2^nd ch from hook and foll 5 sts.idc into each of next 2 sts.Rep from *.

Row 2. Start at one end, sl st into first 2sts.Into first leaf ‘spine’, work (1dc,1htr,3tr).Into end st work (1htr,1tr,1htr).Into second edge of spine work 3tr,1htr, 1dc.

Repeat to end. 8 petals.

Darn in all ends.Press under damp cloth with a warm iron. Either sew collar on to frog, or sew short edges together and pull over frog’s head.

Please donate completed or unstuffed frogs to c/o Rachael Rogan,Chartwell Children's Cancer Trust Lily Pad Appeal Shop, Croydon University Hospital, 530 London Rd.,Croydon,CR7 7YE

Or give a donation here:

https://childchartwellcancertrust.co.uk/donate/

Ipad Cosy- Elsie Revisited

 One of the first patterns I had published in 'Inside Crochet' magazine was for an ipad cosy.Elsie was my Nana's name. This was the prototype- the pattern uses different colours, but you can choose your own, or use stash yarn, like I did.

Elsie ipad cosy 

 The granny square is a great confidence builder for anyone new to crochet. Instructions on how to make them vary, if you already know how to do them, use the method which works for you.This project takes extra large grannies, joins them together and then felts them to make a really chunky protective layer, with or without a lining and extra padding. Before machine washing, the cover looks huge, but it shrinks by 30-40% after felting.

An ideal beginner project, as any mistakes in the basic granny square disappear in the felting process! This uses a special machine washable felting yarn, so hopefully the resulting cosy will resemble the one pictured. Felting can be great fun, a bit like magic but the results are not always what you’d expect!

 

MATERIALS

● SMC Wash + Filz-it! Fine(100%wool)

1xMango,shade 104- A

1x Blanket, shade 120-B

1xWhite, shade 102-C

2x Cherry, shade 127-D

 

● 5 mm crochet hook

● Lining fabric, 4x larger than ipad itself (optional)

Padding (optional)

Velcro (optional)

YARN ALTERNATIVES

An felting wool or 100% wool or cashmere (lopi yarns can work well) .

 TENSION

I recommend that you make one complete granny square in either the recommended yarn or an alternative and test wash it first, in a mesh bag.

Using SMC Wash + Filz-it fine, granny square should measure

13cm x 13cm before felting

After felting- 10cm x 10cm approx.

 

MEASUREMENTS

After felting, cosy measures approx.30cm by 20cm.

 

Basic Granny Square

 

Using A and a 5mm hook, make 6ch , join in a ring with a ss.

Rnd 1: With A, 3ch, 2tr into ring. *3ch, 3tr into ring, repeat from * twice more.

3ch, join with ss to 3^rd of first 3ch. Break off yarn A.

 

Rnd 2: Join B to any space, 3ch (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) into same space.

*1ch (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) into next sp, repeat from * twice more,1ch, join with a ss to 3^rd of 3ch. Break off B.

 

Rnd 3: Join C to a 3ch sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) into same sp.

*1ch, 3tr into 1ch sp,1ch. (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) into 3 ch sp, repeat from * twice more. 1ch, 3tr into1ch sp,1ch, join with an ss to 3^rd of first  3ch.

 

Rnd 4: Join D to a 3ch sp, 3ch, (2tr, 3ch, 3tr) into same sp.

*(1ch, 3tr into 1ch sp) twice,1ch.

(3tr, 3ch, 3tr) into 3ch sp, repeat from * twice more.

(1ch, 3tr into 1ch sp) twice,1ch, join with a ss to 3^rd of first 3ch.

 

 

Complete 12 granny squares in total.

 

 

Joining the squares

 

The squares are joined using double crochet seams.

Place 2 squares right sides together. Using D, insert the hook from front to back through the edges of both pieces. Yrh and pull through, make1dc in the usual way, Then insert hook into the next stitch along, through both layers, ready to make the next dc. Continue in this way until you have a piece of 3x 4 squares joined together.

Fold in half  to make a 2x3 granny square rectangle and join edges, leaving one short end open. Sew in all ends securely.

 

Felting

 

 Follow instructions on ballband of SMC Wash +Filz-it!fine, or test wash alternative yarn granny square in a mesh bag at a regular 40 degree wash. Use detergent and include a towel or pair of jeans to help the felting process. Colour catcher sheets are also a good idea. Remove felted piece while still wet and block, leave to dry.

If it is a lot bigger than the desired 10cm square, try felting at a higher temperature.

If it is a lot smaller, try stretching it.

Felt is quite robust, so it can be manipulated into the desired shape and pressed with an iron on a wool setting.

As no two felted pieces are identical, so some may turn out a perfect snug fit for your ipad, others less so.

If there is some wriggle room in your cosy, but not enough to warrant re-doing the machine felting, you could make a padded lining and Velcro closure.

If it comes out too small, kindle cosy, anyone?