Grannies and Pinwheels, using up odds and ends

Tote Bags

Before we had to suspend our meetings, I was showing my fellow crafters at ASKI, (a Community Hub near me in south London)  things to make using granny squares. There are lots of online tutorials on how to crochet granny squares on youtube.
Also if you are a complete beginner, that is how I got started in 2010. Thanks, bethinxt(beth in Texas)
I bought a big bag of odd little balls of yarn from a charity shop (thrift store).Using mainly 4ply and a 3mm hook, I crocheted squares and joined as I went to make tote bags. I love playing with arrangements of colour, and designing using odd little scraps- its how they used to design things to make at home during WW2, when yarn was scarce.

The handles are made by working about 7 sts in dc (sc in US)and working from side to side for about an inch and a half(don't forget 1ch for turning), then joining sts to work in the round until handle is desired length. Go back to working from side to side as at beginning, and attach to corresponding part of the back joining on the wrong side with dcs(scs in US)

The two below have different types of handle. I just crocheted 12sts of dc back and forth, then joined the strap about an inch and a half from the top of the bag.

Pinwheels

One of the ASKI  crocheters shared a lovely pinwheel throw she was making.
A pinwheel is basically 8x dtr (tr in US, I think)worked into either a magic loop or 4ch joined in a circle, separated by 2chain and closed with a slipped stitch. There is probably a youtube video on how to make them..

I experimented with a selection of 4ply cotton yarns to see if this could be done with a join as you go method-It could! So I am making a tablecloth for our garden table. I find working on the diagonal works best.


 Lots of ends to sew in though. No way around that, as in so many things.
17/06/20. Finished at last, a tablecloth for our garden table!May put some weights on each corner, though it has a nice weight to it, already.

This was really very simple to do: if you hold it up to the light, I think it resembles some cut-out fabric blinds like Matisse had in his studio.

  

If one were to do it all in one colour, it could make a nice blind.Or in wool, felted.Hmm. Shall have to revisit this idea. Took a while, but there is something to be said for a project which gives you lots of practise- here, stitches used were ch, dtr,tr,dc.

Using the same method I used for the tablecloth, but in one colour only. Used a 3ply natural fibre and an 8mm hook, so its very loose- this is pre- felting.

And these are post!

Felting using the washing machine is probably something most of us have done..unintentionally! It can be unpredictable. Feltable yarns include pure wool (no blends), alpaca, and mohair. It is possible to under-do it, 30-40 degrees may produce some shrinkage.60 degrees definitely will, as will 90! Its a good idea to include a pair of jeans,towel,bed linen or something that can stand being washed at the temperature you've chosen. I did a small swatch of this first and washed it at 60 degrees. It came out too scrunched up, so that was what prompted me to use a larger hook.In the event it came out in a felted ball, stuck together, but I managed to tease it apart using a knitting needle and my fingers.If you are doing something coloured,I recommend a sheet or 2 of colour catcher.

As there can be such variation between people's machines, yarns,tensions etc I can't say definitively that what worked for me will work for you. Some kind of experimentation is required. As a rule of thumb, felted things shrink by up to 40%.

Granny Bags

Made with about 38 granny squares, depending on how long you want the strap. I used a JAYG method- there are tutorials on how to do this on youtube.

One more project, boxy bags in 4ply wool, felted in the machine. Felting in the washing machine requires a certain gambler's mentality. Key to its success, works best if all yarns used for project are 100% wool(not acrylic, or mixture)or alpaca. Shetland is ideal. Sock yarn, not so much.A sheet or two of colour catcher and a pair of jeans for company, I washed the red one at 60 degrees then again at 90, to make the fabric as dense as possible.
The grey/turquoise used superwash wool and did not shrink quite so much.
I once spent ages knitting a stripy, brightly coloured beach bag to felt in the machine, and a non-colourfast navy yarn rendered the whole thing sludge-colour. So I am not pretending its foolproof!
You could check things like shrinkage and colourfastness by just measuring and then felting individual squares before embarking on project.

Eventually I shall get around to lining them, maybe using the plastic from lever arch files to make them more rigid.

I have begun the process- carefully measuring each 'plane' of the red bag, to work out how big to cut the plastic. Didn't use my best scissors for this.Used the existing curved corner of the file, and trimmed the other 3 corners to match it. 1 File=1bag.

Next step will be, covers into which the plaster pieces are fed, hand-sewing shut, then hand-stitching together at the edges then to the bag, to achieve 'boxy' shape.Will need to hunt around for something fairly durable to use as a lining fabric...

I wrapped fabric around each piece of plastic,with a fold along the long edge.Pinned it, on the wrong side and removed plastic. Sewed all around leaving one small end open.Trimmed fabric especially at corners, turned right way out, re-nserted plastic. Did this for all pieces. Finally fold in open end,pin and oversew shut.Oversew edges together to mimic bag shape. Starting at the bottom,using matching yarn, sew through front felted edges and where pieces are joined.Do the same at sides. I handstitched a strip of fabric for the handle.Finally sew all edges where lining and felted bag meet.

Finished bag off, fully lined with a nice paisley remnant I had. Sewed presstuds to each corner of front to close.Also lined strap to make it stronger.

Here are some photos showing the construction of the lining of the black/grey/turquoise bag

Individual pieces of plastic,wrapped in fabric which is sewn on 3 sides to make a pocket, then turned through, the plastic replaced and the remaining edge oversewn.

Pieces are then sewn together by hand, right sides together. I put the 'box' construction into the crocheted bag, and stitch along the edges to ensure that the squares are in the right place- some stretching involved.

Press studs added

Et voila!

Colin the Cat Pictures and Pattern

A large black cat called 'Colin' resides at St.Christopher's Hospice.
As a volunteer gardener, I often find him lurking about in the undergrowth. Failing that, he leaves evidence of his presence for us gardeners to deal with...
He is the inspiration for the following amigurumi which I designed. It is worked from the top down and ears, arms, legs and tail are integral to the design and do not need to be sewn on afterwards. Yay!
These were made using 4ply and DK yarn, hook size between 2-3.5mm, the fabric just needs to be quite tight, as stuffing would show through if it is too loose.The large Colin in the second picture was made in chunky yarn with a 4 or 5mm hook.

The pattern is still at the testing stage, so I'd appreciate any crocheters out  there giving it a go, feedback welcome, positive or negative. This batch of Colins sold out very quickly after being on sale in the Anniversary Centre.

Colin the Cat Crochet Amigurumi Pattern by Jo Bodley

Materials

Any yarn weight, with hook size to create fairly dense fabric in mainly dc. As a rough guide:

4ply-2.5mm hook

DK- 3.5mm hook

Chunky- 5-6mm hook.

Small amount embroidery thread (or wool for chunky version)in pink and green.

Tapestry Needle

U.K. Abbreviations

ch- chain

dc- double crochet

htr- half treble

tr- treble

ss- slip stitch

lp- loop

yrh- yarn around hook

rep- repeat

rnd- round

st(s)-stitch(es)

sp- space

CB- Centre Back

CF- Centre Front

tog- together

Instructions

Ch2 loosely.

Rnd 1:Into 2^nd ch from hook, make 6dc.(6sts.)

Rnd 2:2dc in each st. 12sts.

Rnd3:(2dc in first st,1dc), repeat to end. (18sts.)

Ears Round

Rnd 4:*Make ear thus:(1htr,2tr,ch2).Ss into third st from hook and 2 more ss into side of last tr.1dc for between ears. Repeat instructions in brackets from* for 2^nd ear.(2dc in next st, 2dc) to end.

Rnd 5:*Fold  ear towards centre of work and make 3 dc behind it.1dc between ears. Repeat from * for second ear.Dc into remaining sts.

Rnd 6: Work 7htr into sts behind ears. Then dc  remaining sts.

Rnd 7: As rnd 6.

Rnds 8-11:Dc all around. Finish at centre back of head. You may want to use a stitch marker.

Rnd 12: *(2dc into next st, 4dc).Rep from * to end.

Rnd 13:Dc all around without increasing

Rnd 14:Rep rnd 12

Arms Round.

Rnd 15:Fold cat facing forward to determine sides where arms will be. Dc to start of arm if needed. Arm starts:Ch 10.Work 2 tr into 3^rd ch from hook, ss.Make bobble by pulling yarn out ,yrh,pull through lp to match first one 3x,yrh pull through all lps,ss to close then dc into same sp you made lps in.Insert hook into top of next tr and make 2^nd bobble.Insert hook in final top of tr and make 3^rd bobble.Dc into base of st and next st.Htr into rem ch sts.Dc into next st of round. Dc until you reach placement for second arm, and repeat.

Rnd 16:Dc all around, when you get to arms, fold them towards head and work 2dc into the underarms.

Rnd 17-23.Dc all around.

Tail and Leg Round

Rnd 24:At CB ch 21.Ss into first 3sts.Dc next 4 sts.Htr into next 7sts.Dc into next 6 sts. Dc to next st of round.Dc to position of first leg. Legs can be positioned directly below arms for an akimbo look, or closer together, say either side of centre 3 sts. Determine where CF is by folding cat in half.

Each leg is worked the same as arms.

Decrease round

Rnd 25:( Dc 2tog, 3dc)to end.

Rnd 26:(Dc 2tog,2dc)to end

You may want to stuff cat at this point.

Rnd 27:(Dc 2tog, 1dc) to end.

Rnd 28:Dc2tog all around.

Keep decreasing in like manner until there are 6 sts left. Leave a long tail for sewing in.

Make running sts in and out of sts of last round and pull tight. Weave in end.

Face is made using embroidery thread and photos as a guide, with couch st for mouth and upper lip, satin st for nose and the eyes are French Knots.

For collar, with red (or green- or any colour you like) ch enough to fit around neck and attach at CB using a tapestry needle to sew in ends.

Variations.

Punky Cats based on the above pattern. Made by using an eyelash yarn and a 4ply together- using just the 4ply for faces,arms and legs.

Keeping busy

Not  able to do my usual things like teaching crochet at local community hub, ASKI. An ongoing project for me right now are baby blankets, destined for new mums at our local refugee centre .

With a 4mm hook, oddments of coloured acrylic, good old granny squares, I make 35 and arrange in a 5 x 7 grid, joining with a 100g ball of a base colour, using the Join As You Go method.
A fun opportunity to experiment with colour and design. Here are some examples.
I break the task down into, working the squares themselves, sewing all ends in, until I have enough. Then I lay them out on the floor and starting at the top right hand corner,I work them together using the JAYG method.
I love a project where there is no 'right' or 'wrong.' It supports my personal theory that if you put time and effort into something, chances are it will come out pleasing.
Think I will hold on to them until Christmas 2020- hopefully things will be safer then.

One Happy Customer

I adapted a circle in a square pattern so it could be joined as you go. Here's the result:

And another one

October 2021

A new  design, made using hairpin crochet strips,woven together.I edged it with 10 rounds of dc (sc in US.)

Some of the refugees, both male and female, know how to crochet already, and are very grateful to be given yarn and hooks. The examples below were made by an Albanian woman called Mimoza. Stunning!