Free Colin the Cat and Koi Carp patterns for St.Christopher's Hospice

 A large black cat called 'Colin' resided at St.Christopher's Hospice, Sydenham.

When I was a volunteer gardener, I often found him lurking about in the undergrowth. Failing that, he left evidence of his presence for us gardeners to deal with...
He is the inspiration for the following amigurumi which I designed in his honour. It is worked from the top down and ears, arms, legs and tail are integral to the design and do not need to be sewn on afterwards. Yay!
These were made using 4ply and DK yarn, hook size between 2-3.5mm, the fabric just needs to be quite tight, as stuffing would show through if it is too loose.The large Colin in the second picture was made in chunky yarn with a 4 or 5mm hook.

The pattern is still at the testing stage, so I'd appreciate any crocheters out  there giving it a go, feedback welcome, positive or negative. This batch of Colins sold out very quickly after being on sale in the Anniversary Centre. I've made lots, making them can get quite addictive. Although I am offering these patterns free of charge, if you enjoy making them, please consider making a donation to St.Christopher's, or your local Hospice.They don't have to be black! Variegated and fluffy yarns work, too- experiment!

A basket of Christmassy Colins!

Kevin the Koi Carp by Jo Bodley 2020

Inspired by the pond of Koi Carp at St. Christopher's Hospice, I designed this seamless amigurumi fish. The yarn is some vintage variegated wool, from a Charity Shop. There are many lovely variegated yarns available, Noro might be interesting.

I made some changes, in an effort to simplify this pattern. I put bells inside, one is for a baby, the other for a dog! Still needs tweaking,I think. They look a bit more lungfish than Koi Carp! Might try a mobile,using variegated yarns

Anyway, heres the pattern Enjoy!

                                                                                                                                                       

This pattern starts at the mouth and is worked in spiral rounds to the tail, with the fins all being integral, not needing to be sewn on afterwards.

Any weight and size of hook could be used, the only proviso being, that the fabric be close enough not to allow stuffing to show through.

Several could be made in different colours and suspended to make a baby  mobile, or they could contain cat nip or a bell as a pet toy.

Koi Carp Pattern (draft) by Jo Bodley.      jo.bodley@googlemail.com. Copyright 2020.

3.5mm hook, DK yarn

Make a magic ring and into it make 10dcs. OR  If you prefer, ch2  and work 10dc into 2^nd ch from hook.(if using second method, leave a long end for threading through and pulling end closed).

Rnd 1:*2dc into next st,4dc, repeat from * once.(12sts).

Rnd 2: *2dc into next st,5dc, repeat from * once. (14sts).

Rnd 3: *2dc into next st,6dc,repeat from * once. (16sts).

Rnd 4: *2dc into next st, 7dc, repeat from * once.(18sts).

Eyes Round.

Rnd 5:3dc, make bobble thus:

Insert hook into next st, pull yarn through both loops, pull up yarn to about 3-4mm.

*yrh,insert hook, yrh,pull up 3-4mm, repeat from * 3 more times. Yrh and pull through all loops on hook.SS into same st as loops were made in.

4dc,2dc in next st,4dc.

Make bobble for second eye.3dc,2dc into next st (20sts)

Rnd 6:3dc, 2dc behind bobble,5dc,2dc in next st,5dc.Behind bobble work 2dc, 3dc to end. (24sts).

Rnds 7-8: Dc all around without increasing.

Front Side Fin Round.

Rnd 9:8dc.

Make fin thus: Ch9, into 3^rd ch from hook,1tr.Into remaining ch, work (2tr,2htr,1dc,1ss)then dc into next st of round and turn.

Work to tip of fin, (2ss,2dc,2htr,2tr), turn

Ch2, 1tr,2htr,2ch,2ss, dc into next st of round. 6dc. Make second fin the same way as the first.7dc. (24sts).

Dorsal Fin rounds

Rnd 10: Into top st, ch 5. Dc into2nd ch from hookand rest of ch.9dc,1dc behind fin,6dc,1dc behind fin,7dc.(24sts).

Rnd 11: Dc along last edge of fin worked, not the cast on chain (you may have to twist work slightly, in order to achieve this),ch1, turn. Dc back to top of head, Dc all around.

Rnds12-19: Repeat rnd 11.

Rnd 20: 4dc to top of fin,ch 1, turn .4dc to base of fin.

11dc,2dc tog,11dc.

Rnd 21: 3dc into fin, ch1,turn,4dc.10dc,dc2tog,10dc.

Rnd 22:3dc up fin, ch1,turn, 4dc.Dc all around.(21sts).

Lower Fin Round

Rnd 23:Ch3 into dorsal fin,ch1,turn.4dc.5ch,

make fin thus;[Ch6,into 3^rd ch from hook, 1htr, 1htr,2dc,1ss,turn

1ss,1dc,2htr,2ch,turn 2htr,2dc.1ss.]

6dc, make 2^nd fin as 1st.5dc.

Rnd 24:3dc up fin,ch1,turn.4dc to base of dorsal fin.1dc behind fin.6dc,1dc behind fin.4dc.

Rnd 25: 3dc up fin,ch1,turn.4dc to top of fin.7dc,dc2tog,7dc.

Rnd 26: 3dc up fin,ch1, turn.4dc to base of fin.14dc.

Rnd 27: 3dc up fin,turn,3dc to base of fin.6dc,dc2tog,6dc.

Rnd 28: 3dc up fin,turn, 3dc. 12dc around.

Rnd 29:3dc,turn,3dc.6dc,dc2tog,6dc.

Rnd 30:2dc,1ch,turn,3dc.11dc.

Stuff body with polyester toy stuffing.

Rnd 31:2dc,turn,2dc.5dc,dc2tog,5dc.

Rnd 32: 2dc turn,2dc,4dc,dc2tog,4dc.

Rnd 33:1dc,ch1,turn,2dc.3dc.dc2tog,3dc

Rnd 34: 1dc,turn,1dc, dc2tog twice.

Tail

Rnd 35:[10ch,turn,ss,2dc,2htr,1tr,1htr,1dc]Repeat instruction in brackets for second section of tail.Work a dc into other side of chain to tail end, repeat bracket instruction. Repeat for second part of tail.

Sew in ends, Embroider eyes on bobbles, using black French knots and white chain stitches.

Free Chartwell Children's Cancer Trust Frog Toy

 

Croydon University Hospital has a new charity shop raising funds to improve services for children with cancer.I came up with a pattern for a Frog toy to be sold in the shop in aid of the charity.
https://chartwellcancertrust.co.uk/

I designed this amigurumi toy to be seamless; it works in any weight of yarn, from 3ply to chunky, with hook size variable, what matters is that the fabric be tight enough so no stuffing shows through.I used polyester toy stuffing and embroidered eyes and nose to make it safe for children and cats! So far  I've made the frog into key rings, catnip toys, and plan to use some in an animation. (Had to abandon this however, as guess what, animation requires use of a green screen!)

Inspired by builders over the road, I made these hi-vis jacket wearing frogs for them, and they generously bought some!Leftover ones for sale at Croydon Hospital Charity Shop.

Lily the Frog by Jo Bodley

Intermediate

  Stitches used(UK terms)

ch- chain

dc-double crochet

htr-half treble

Bobble stitch- Insert hook into 1^st st of round, yrh, pull yarn through both loops- 1 lp on hook. Pull this loop out about 5mm (may be longer or shorter if using different yarn weight).*Yrh, insert through same st as before, pull through to match 5mm lp. Repeat from * twice.(7 loops on hook).Yrh,pull through all 7 lps. Insert hook into same st loops are in and ss to close bobble.

Increasing and decreasing

Materials

● This pattern uses approx.. 25g any DK yarn in mid green(A), though other weights can also be used. If making collar, you will need small amounts of dk in bright pink and acid green

● This pattern uses a 3mm hook, but as a general rule, size is not important for this project; what matters is, that the hook used produces a firm fabric so that stuffing will not show through.

● Polyester toy stuffing

Small amounts of black and white DK yarn or embroidery thread for eyes and mouth

Tapestry needle

Yarn Alternatives

Any yarn can be used for this project, as long as the guideline above about hook size is taken into consideration. A  4mm hook was used with a variegated aran yarn, to produce a frog which looks like he’s streaked with slime! A fine cotton and a size 14 hook produces a tiny frog which could be a key ring or, the body unstuffed, a finger puppet.

Tension

Tension is not important for this project; a smaller gauge than that recommended on the ball band will produce a tighter fabric- you do not want stuffing to show through.(Exception to this is using felting wool; in this case, you can work at a looser tension, as washing in the machine will shrink frog, produce dense fabric and hide stuffing))

Measurements

Not important for this project, however,

(From top of head to tip of toes )

A DK frog is about 19cm.

An Aran weight frog is 22cm

A chunky frog made using a 6mm hook is 32cm

Special stitch patterns

Bobble 

Pattern Notes

Commence at top of head and work in a spiral, making bobbles for eyes. Once head is completed, stuff it. Arms are worked by making a length of ch, making 3tr for paws and working a bobble into the top of each tr. A row of half trebles is worked into the remaining chain, dc to other side of body, second arm made in the same way. Work straight till body is desired length, then legs are worked like arms only longer. Decrease rounds are worked until about 6 sts remain; stuff body, run yarn end round rem sts like a drawstring, pull tight and sew in end.

Collar is a length of chain with leaf spines made by ch and ss back to top, 8 times. Into each leaf spine sts of varying sizes are worked in pink to make petals, carried along to next spine by ss. Collar can be sewn around neck of frog or sewn together separately and pulled over frog’s head.

Designer Biography

A lifelong knitter,I learnt to crochet in 2010 via a youtube video (thanks, bethin Texas, or bethinxt).I find crochet  a great outlet for creativity.

Instructions

Ch2, work 5 dcs into 2^nd ch from hook. 6sts.

Rnd 1: 2dc into each st.(12sts.)

Rnd 2:*2dcinto next st,1dc, rep from *.(18sts.)

Eye round

Rnd 3:Insert marker for start of rnd. Make bobble,thus.

 Insert hook into 1^st st of round, yrh, pull yarn through both loops- 1 lp on hook. Pull this loop out about 5mm (may be longer or shorter if using different yarn weight).*Yrh, insert through same st as before, pull through to match 5mm lp. Repeat from * twice.(7 loops on hook).Yrh,pull through all 7 lps. Insert hook into same st loops are in and ss to close bobble.

*2dc in next st,2dc until there are 11 sts from bobble (next st should be opposite first bobble).Repeat instructions from make bobble to end. 24sts.

Rnd 4: Manoeuvre bobble to front of hook and make a dc behind it. There needs to be 14 dcs between bobbles and one dc behind each bobble. In order to attain this make 3 evenly spaced increases either side of bobbles. Work second bobble as first, make 3 increases to end. 30sts.

Rnds 5-6: 1dc in each st.

Rnd 7:(2dctog,3dc,) repeat to end.(24sts.)

Rnd 9: (2dctog,2dc)repeat to end.(18sts.)

Rnd 10: (2dctog,1dc) to end.(12sts.)

Rnd11: 1dc in each st.(12sts.)

Rnd 12; 2dc in next st, 1dc to end. (18sts.)

Stuff head.

Arm round

Commence round in stitch which lines up with one eye

Rnd 13:Insert hook into st indicated above,*Ch 13 fairly loosely.

Into 3^rd ch from hook, work 2tr.Make a ss. Pull out loop and make bobble at top of first tr.Repeat twice more- 3 bobbles made. Sl st to st you made the trs into.10 htr into each rem ch.Dc to rejoin body of frog.

(2dc into next st,1dc) twice, 1dc.Repeat from *.

Rnd 14:*Dc into edge of top of arm, fold arm over head and insert hook through middle of arm, 1dc, dc other edge of arm.9dc, repeat from* as for other arm.24sts.

Rnds 15-22:1dc in each st .

Leg round.

Starting point should be aligned with arm and eye.

Rnd 22:1dc in next 2 sts.*Ch 18.

Make foot as for hand,

Htr into 15 ch to top of leg.3dc.Repeat from * for other leg.

Rnd 24:(3dc,2dctog)all around.When you come to legs , work a 2dc behind each leg.

Rnd 25:(2dc,2dctog) to start of round.18sts

Stuff body.

Rnd 26: (1dc,2dctog) to start of round.12sts

 Rnd 27(2dctog)to start of round. 6sts

Break off yarn.

Weave yarn in and out around sts of final rnd and pull tight like a drawstring. Fasten off securely.

Embroider on eyes as per photograph. Satin st or lazy daisies. For mouth, bring yarn out just below eye, make a smile shape with yarn and insert needle to match other side.Tether the loose ‘smile’ with tiny sts in 3 or 4 places.

Fasten off.

Petal Collar.(optional)

 With B make 21ch.

Row 1. 1dc into 2^nd ch from hook,1dc.

*ch6.Sl st into 2^nd ch from hook and foll 5 sts.idc into each of next 2 sts.Rep from *.

Row 2. Start at one end, sl st into first 2sts.Into first leaf ‘spine’, work (1dc,1htr,3tr).Into end st work (1htr,1tr,1htr).Into second edge of spine work 3tr,1htr, 1dc.

Repeat to end. 8 petals.

Darn in all ends.Press under damp cloth with a warm iron. Either sew collar on to frog, or sew short edges together and pull over frog’s head.

More variations

Hula Frog (and child)

Punk Frog

                                                         Guitar playing frog

Hairpin lace crochet scarf with pockets

 I'm pleased to have a pattern inside the latest issue of Crochet Now-

In among some lovely ideas is my Hairpin Lace Crochet Scarf with pockets, pictured below.

Photo courtesy of Crochet Now Magazine.

Here's the free pattern:

Hairpin Cable Stole with patch pockets

Hairpin cable crochet grows quickly and makes an interesting, textured, slightly stretchy fabric, a cross between crochet and weaving. The right side is the one with raised, plaited cables showing. Start with short strips for the pockets, to get a feel for the technique, then make the longer strips for the stole. Make all the strips you need for each part before joining; owing to random colour changes in the yarn, you may want to experiment with the most pleasing arrangement of the strips. Borders in MC are added later, using the larger hook and one row of dc and two rows of htr stitches.

Yarn

King Cole Subtle (MC) 3 x 100g balls Chunky; 135m per 100g ball;Acrylic 69% , Cotton 25%,Wool 6%

King Cole Drifter (CC) 3 x100g balls Chunky;135m per 100g ball; Acrylic 69% , Cotton 25% Cotton,Wool 6% MC- Rose 4672 CC- Rome 2167

Or use any chunky yarn which works up to the same tension. Leave long ends to make tassels if desired.

Tension

13 loops and 4 pattern strips(measured from crochet centre part to crochet centre part)across 10cm.

Hook-

 5mm, 6mm

Other supplies-

Hairpin loom adjustable to 6cm

Tapestry needle

Stitch Markers

Sizing

One size

Abbreviations (UK)

 MC- Main Colour

CC- Contrast Colour

 St- stitch

ss- slip stitch

ch- chain

dc- double crochet

 htr- half treble

Pattern

Pockets (make 2)

Place stitch markers at beginning of each strip. With MC, make 3 strips of 30 loops each side. Break off yarn and pull through last st to close. With CC make 3 strips of 30 loops each side. Cut off yarn, leaving long end for sewing in and pull through last st. It helps when joining to have all the strips lined up horizontally with the stitch markers to the right. Weave strips together from end with stitch markers, using a 6mm hook.

 Alternate MC and CC strips, as follows:

MC, CC, MC, CC, MC, CC

Starting from the upper loop edge of the bottom, CC strip, insert 6mm hook into first 2 loops of 1st strip, then into first 2 loops of second strip. This will be the MC strip directly above or beside it. Pull second 2 loops through first 2 loops. * Insert hook into next loop of 1st strip and pull through the remaining 2 loops on hook. Alternating strips, rep. from * to end. Secure the loops at the end by pulling the tail at the end of the strip through the last 2 loops, and making a ss.

 Continue in this way until all the strips are joined. In weaving the loops together, aim to be consistent. For example, if CC is first to be used at top loop edge of strip it should be first to be used at the bottom row of loops as well. The short edges of the strips may look uneven, but this can be corrected.

Side edges

There will still be loose loops at the top and bottom of the pocket. Neaten these by putting 6mm hook through one loop, picking up next loop and drawing through first loop, repeating to the end and drawing through a yarn end and making a ss to close.

 Pocket Top Border

 With right side facing, join MC to top right of pocket, to the CC strip. With MC and 6mm hook, work 1dc into each stitch of long edge of strip.

Row1: Ch2 (counts as first htr), then htr all along top pocket edge, turn.

Row 2: Repeat Row 1.

With right side facing, neaten remaining 3 edges of pocket using CC, making 4 dcs at each short end of strips, and working a dc into every st along the long edge of pocket strip. Leave a long end for sewing pocket onto stole. Sew in all loose ends from strips on wrong side of pockets, neatening as you go, if there are any holes or discrepancies.

Stole

With 5mm hook and hairpin loom with prongs 6cm apart, and a stitch marker to indicate start of each strip, make long strips using same method as that employed for pockets, as follows:

MC-5 x strips of 218 loops, top and bottom CC-6 x strips of 218 loops, top and bottom Arrange strips horizontally or vertically as you prefer, as you did for pockets. Strips are joined, with a 6mm hook, using hairpin cable technique (see instruction for pocket and illustration box) in the following order, CC, MC, CC, MC, CC, MC, CC, MC, CC, MC, CC

Side Edges

. Neaten loose loops at long edges of stole in the same way as for pocket instructions, using 6mm hook, one loop at a time.

 Long edge Borders

With MC and 6mm hook, dc along long edges of stole. Turn.

Row 1:2ch, then htr into each dc to end.

Row 2: Repeat Row 1.

Short edge Borders

With 6mm hook, neaten short edges of stole with a row of dcs, 3dcs into short edge of long edge border,44dcs along short edge of stole, 3dc across short edge of other border. (50sts)Turn.

 Row 1: 2ch, htr into each st to end,turn.

Row 2: repeat 1 st row.

Finishing

 Press according to ball band instructions, approx.. measurements, pockets 22cm x 22cm.Stole,165cm x 42cm.. Sew in all ends for about 5cm. Sew pockets in place using backstitch through the edge stitches , along a row of crochet stitches between loops on the stole. Position pockets centrally at each short end, matching lower edge of pocket to top edge of border.

 

Hints and tips.

 Completed stole will vary from one pictured owing to random self-striping effect of yarn used. Always leave a long end for sewing in. Weave the yarn in and out of the work, not too tightly, for about 5cm, then cut away what’s left. Turning the loom in order to make the stitches results in the work becoming twisted, but when you slip the work off the lower prongs, leaving 4 loops either side, they soon unwind. Allowing strips to unwind is a part of the process! If you come to the end of a long strip and realise that on the wrong side you missed the odd loop, darn it in using matching yarn. Pin pockets in place and check fit before sewing; you may want to position pockets higher or lower than suggested.