Croydon University Hospital has a new charity shop raising funds to improve services for children with cancer.I came up with a pattern for a Frog toy to be sold in the shop in aid of the charity.
I designed this amigurumi toy to be seamless; it works in any weight of yarn, from 3ply to chunky, with hook size variable, what matters is that the fabric be tight enough so no stuffing shows through.I used polyester toy stuffing and embroidered eyes and mouth to make it safe for children and cats! So far I've made the frog into key rings, catnip toys, and plan to use some in an animation. (Had to abandon this however, as guess what, animation requires use of a green screen!)
Inspired by builders over the road, I made these hi-vis jacket wearing frogs for them, and they generously bought some!Leftover ones for sale at Croydon Hospital Charity Shop.
Lily the Frog by Jo Bodley
This seamless amigurumi frog is continuous- no fiddly add-ons, to be sewn on- and adaptable to be made in all yarn weights using different sized hooks. A Victorian scarf pattern in an old Weldons pattern book gave me the idea of using bobbles for eyes, fingers and toes. Inspired by the Chartwell Cancer Trust logo, Lily has a separately made removeable colourful collar. For safety, eyes and mouth are embroidered on, and polyester toy stuffing means Lily can be washed. She has a flat bottom to enable her to sit on a shelf with her legs dangling over the edge. I have made versions with a muslin bag of catnip inside-only those made from hardy acrylic tend to survive!
Bobble stitch- Insert hook into 1st st of round, yrh, pull yarn through both loops- 1 lp on hook. Pull this loop out about 5mm (may be longer or shorter if using different yarn weight).*Yrh, insert through same st as before, pull through to match 5mm lp. Repeat from * twice.(7 loops on hook).Yrh,pull through all 7 lps. Insert hook into same st loops are in and ss to close bobble.
Increasing and decreasing
● This pattern uses approx.. 25g any DK yarn in mid green(A), though other weights can also be used. If making collar, you will need small amounts of dk in bright pink and acid green
● This pattern uses a 3mm hook, but as a general rule, size is not important for this project; what matters is, that the hook used produces a firm fabric so that stuffing will not show through.
Small amounts of black and white DK yarn or embroidery thread for eyes and mouth
Any yarn can be used for this project, as long as the guideline above about hook size is taken into consideration. A 4mm hook was used with a variegated aran yarn, to produce a frog which looks like he’s streaked with slime! A fine cotton and a size 14 hook produces a tiny frog which could be a key ring or, the body unstuffed, a finger puppet.
Tension is not important for this project; a smaller gauge than that recommended on the ball band will produce a tighter fabric- you do not want stuffing to show through.(Exception to this is using felting wool; in this case, you can work at a looser tension, as washing in the machine will shrink frog, produce dense fabric and hide stuffing))
Not important for this project, however,
(From top of head to tip of toes )
An Aran weight frog is 22cm
A chunky frog made using a 6mm hook is 32cm
Commence at top of head and work in a spiral, making bobbles for eyes. Once head is completed, stuff it. Arms are worked by making a length of ch, making 3tr for paws and working a bobble into the top of each tr. A row of half trebles is worked into the remaining chain, dc to other side of body, second arm made in the same way. Work straight till body is desired length, then legs are worked like arms only longer. Decrease rounds are worked until about 6 sts remain; stuff body, run yarn end round rem sts like a drawstring, pull tight and sew in end.
Collar is a length of chain with leaf spines made by ch and ss back to top, 8 times. Into each leaf spine sts of varying sizes are worked in pink to make petals, carried along to next spine by ss. Collar can be sewn around neck of frog or sewn together separately and pulled over frog’s head.
A lifelong knitter,I learnt to crochet in 2010 via a youtube video (thanks, bethin Texas, or bethinxt).I finds crochet a great outlet for creativity.
Ch2, work 5 dcs into 2nd ch from hook. 6sts.
Rnd 1: 2dc into each st.(12sts.)
Rnd 2:*2dcinto next st,1dc, rep from *.(18sts.)
Rnd 3:Insert marker for start of rnd. Make bobble,thus.
Insert hook into 1st st of round, yrh, pull yarn through both loops- 1 lp on hook. Pull this loop out about 5mm (may be longer or shorter if using different yarn weight).*Yrh, insert through same st as before, pull through to match 5mm lp. Repeat from * twice.(7 loops on hook).Yrh,pull through all 7 lps. Insert hook into same st loops are in and ss to close bobble.
*2dc in next st,2dc until there are 11 sts from bobble (next st should be opposite first bobble).Repeat instructions from make bobble to end. 24sts.
Rnd 4: Manoeuvre bobble to front of hook and make a dc behind it. There needs to be 14 dcs between bobbles and one dc behind each bobble. In order to attain this make 3 evenly spaced increases either side of bobbles. Work second bobble as first, make 3 increases to end. 30sts.
Rnds 5-6: 1dc in each st.
Rnd 7:(2dctog,3dc,) repeat to end.(24sts.)
Rnd 9: (2dctog,2dc)repeat to end.(18sts.)
Rnd 10: (2dctog,1dc) to end.(12sts.)
Rnd11: 1dc in each st.(12sts.)
Rnd 12; 2dc in next st, 1dc to end. (18sts.)
Commence round in stitch which lines up with one eye
Rnd 13:Insert hook into st indicated above,*Ch 13 fairly loosely.
Into 3rd ch from hook, work 2tr.Make a ss. Pull out loop and make bobble at top of first tr.Repeat twice more- 3 bobbles made. Sl st to st you made the trs into.10 htr into each rem ch.Dc to rejoin body of frog.
(2dc into next st,1dc) twice, 1dc.Repeat from *.
Rnd 14:*Dc into edge of top of arm, fold arm over head and insert hook through middle of arm, 1dc, dc other edge of arm.9dc, repeat from* as for other arm.24sts.
Rnds 15-22:1dc in each st .
Starting point should be aligned with arm and eye.
Rnd 22:1dc in next 2 sts.*Ch 18.
Htr into 15 ch to top of leg.3dc.Repeat from * for other leg.
Rnd 24:(3dc,2dctog)all around.When you come to legs , work a 2dc behind each leg.
Rnd 25:(2dc,2dctog) to start of round.18sts
Rnd 26: (1dc,2dctog) to start of round.12sts
Rnd 27(2dctog)to start of round. 6sts
Weave yarn in and out around sts of final rnd and pull tight like a drawstring. Fasten off securely.
Embroider on eyes as per photograph. Satin st or lazy daisies. For sleeping frogs, stitch a crescent below each bobble, with stitches for lashes radiating from it. For mouth, bring yarn out just below eye, make a smile shape with yarn and insert needle to match other side.Tether the loose ‘smile’ with tiny couched sts in 3 or 4 places.
Row 1. 1dc into 2nd ch from hook,1dc.
*ch6.Sl st into 2nd ch from hook and foll 5 sts.idc into each of next 2 sts.Rep from *.
Row 2. Start at one end, sl st into first 2sts.Into first leaf ‘spine’, work (1dc,1htr,3tr).Into end st work (1htr,1tr,1htr).Into second edge of spine work 3tr,1htr, 1dc.
Darn in all ends.Press under damp cloth with a warm iron. Either sew collar on to frog, or sew short edges together and pull over frog’s head.
If you've found this pattern in any way helpful, please consider giving completed frogs to c/o Rachael Rogan,Chartwell Children's Cancer Trust Lily Pad Appeal Shop, Croydon University Hospital, 530 London Rd.,Croydon,CR7 7YE
Or give a donation here:
https://childchartwellcancertrust.co.uk/donate/